The Gill Boulder (Eldorado State Park) – V0 to V10

Location: Eldorado Canyon State Park – Boulder, CO

Parking: Parking Lot at 39.931131, -105.298824

Hike: Literally 10 seconds from parking lot

Route: The Gill Boulder has about a dozen routes up it, ranging from V0 to V10.  The easier ones will be obvious, as they will have way more chalk on the holds.

Climbing type: boulder

Basic Gear:  chalk bag with chalk and crash pad(s)

Website:  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/northeast-corner/105992464

Gill
The NE Corner (V0) goes right up the middle of the rock, as seen in the photo.  Chalk marks can be seen on the traverse around the rock. The Gill Dihedral (V1) can be seen to the right of the NE corner.  The North Face Dyno is seen at the right edge of the picture (V3-V4, PG13).

The rock is a very commonly bouldered rock in eldo, mostly for the convenience of its location to the parking lot and how easy it can be.  When I have gone, there have been upwards of 4 different groups all climbing it.

I began by attempting and completing the V0, which follows the ridge going up the rock in the middle of the photo.  The rock is pretty tall by the top, but that is also where it begins to slope out and you can easily lay on the rock if need be.  At the top, it is probably 20 feet, two crash pads would be ideal.  The fall would be right onto a couple rocks below, so one crash pad may not quite cut it; however, I only had 1 crash pad when attempting.

I enjoyed the route, but the issue was that the bottom holds were WAY polished beyond hope of getting any grip.

After completing the V0, I attempted traversing from the Northeast corner (V0) past the Gill Dihedral (V1) around the Dyno (V3-V4, PG13) to the North Face (V2 – not seen in this picture).  The starting holds were polished traversing in this order, however, it proved difficult and fun.  Have a spotter move the crash pad as you traverse, as you’ll be high enough to injure yourself falling on hard ground.

The next weekend I came out and attempted the Gill Dihedral (V1) after seeing a climber DESCEND down the line.  After gaining some courage, I attempted and completed the route with a spotter.  There is a friendly jug right after the dihedral that seems scary to reach for, but is actually really stable.

After completing any route on the Gill Boulder, there is a tree on the East side that can be descended to get down again.  It is a bit polished, but it’ll get the job done with a slow descent.

Although it is highly polished, I would highly recommend this rock for two reasons:

  1. The rock has a range of difficulties, so after completing a V0 you can attempt a V1 and so on.
  2. There are going to be climbers better than you on the route.  It can help to watch them do the harder lines to get an idea how to become better at Bouldering.
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