Simple Simon Slab (Eldorado Canyon SP) – 5.6R

Location: Eldorado Canyon State Park – Boulder, CO

Parking: Parking Lot at 39.931131, -105.298824

Hike: Literally 20 seconds from the parking lot

Route: It is the slab that faces the bridge, on the other side of “Play Time,” the V-easy slab face.

Route Stats: 5.6, 30′, 1 pitch

Climbing type: top rope

Pro: 2 bolted anchors

Gear: 2 quickdraws for TR setting.  Need long (120cm +) runners for setting TR.  PAS for cleaning the route after the climb.  Helmet for any climb.

Basic Gear:  harness, ATC, locker, chalk bag with chalk, 9-10mm single rope


Simple Simon

The TR anchor is super easy to access.  Hike around the south side of the slab and up a class 2+ route to the top.  If you want to set “Play Easy” you can just use two quickdraws, but if you want to set “Simple Simon” you are going to have to use longer runners using those same anchors (they face Play Easy).  Be sure that no one sneaks behind and sets a TR for Play Time while you are climbing.  We had a group set up a TR for Play Time while we were climbing, which puts too much load on the anchors.  Luckily they hadn’t started climbing before I noticed, so I had to explain to them why that is unethical climbing behavior.

Nice butt-shot from the ground.  I took the crack up (as seen running up the center in the picture) for my first run up the slab.

That being said, this is a super easy 5.6R.  The nice thigns about it is that if you keep left, it’ll be a crack climb whereas the right side is more crimpy.  It was nice to take a couple different routes up the face.  For my second day out climbing, this was a perfect TR route.  Easy to set, easy to climb, easy to find.  Highly recommend for one of your first days out TRing.


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