Killian’s Dead (Brown Cloud Crag) – 5.6

Location: Brown Cloud Crag, south side of North Table Mountain – Golden, CO

Parking: Parking Lot, Colorado 58 (39.766105, -105.214137)

Hike: About 10 minutes from parking lot to crag, less than 1 mile

Route: Brown Cloud has 50+ lines, so it can be hard to find a specific route.  There is a class 3/4 gully that can be climbed to set a top rope anywhere.  “Killian’s Dead” is several slabs to the left of that gully.  It can be found to the right of “Deck Chairs on the Titanic.”

Route Stats: 5.6, 50′, 1 pitch

Climbing type: trad or top rope

Pro: 2 bolted anchors with rings

Gear: 2 quickdraws for TR setting.  May need short runners for setting TR.  PAS for cleaning the route after the climb.  Helmet for any climb.

Basic Gear:  harness, ATC, locker, chalk bag with chalk, 9-10mm single rope

Website:  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/killians-dead/105748217

 

crack
You will follow the crack just to the right of the TR set here

Setting the TR on this guy was way easier than for Deck Chairs.  That being said, we ran out of quickdraws (bought more today – they are on the way!) so we had to set a runner into the holds and use two lockers to set the TR.  It worked fine, just was more work.  It might work to set using 18cm quickdraws, but the hooks might not be perfectly level and may require runners or an equilizer sling.  Either way, the anchors are super accessible.  Normally it is bad to use the rings attached to the bolts, but in this case it was impossible to use the anchors because of how they were positioned in the rock.  I had to use the rings, but it worked out okay.

We set this line at the last second just before we were going to leave.  The crack was super easy.  It would be a great practice to crack climbing because it is big enough that you don’t have to be super technical and it is easy to wedge your feet into the crack.  However, I found the wide crack challenging since I am used to technical cracks.  So take your pick.

Either way, it was a nice little guy to climb while we had a second TR set on Deck Chairs.  It was fun to climb side by side, even if this one was substantially easier.  Would I set this one again?  No chance, I’d go for Deck Chairs if I am in the area.  It is the perfect challenge of crimping and short technical cracks!

 

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